Food & Drink · Travel

Ro’s Recipes: The Matriarch and A Parisian New Year

Portobello Mushroom Tarte Tatin with Madeira Ice Cream

Tartes Tatin is a traditional French dish – originally made with apples. The story is that one of the Tatin sisters forgot the apples cooking in a pan on the stove, over-caramelizing them, so she just put the pastry on top, popped it in the oven upside-down and then turned it right-side up perfectly cooked.

Here we give it a 21st century update as a savory treat with mushrooms.

Yield: six portions as an appetizer

Equipment: measuring spoons and cups, medium mixing bowl, whisk, small saucepan, wooden spoon, double boiler, ice cream maker, small sauté  pan, large sauté  pan, rolling pin, 2” cookie cutter, one tablespoon ice cream scoop, half sheet tray, chef’s knife, cutting board.


Madeira Ice Cream:
3 egg yolks
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons sugar

1 cup scalded cream
¾ cup Madeira

2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoon minced shallot
2 teaspoon minced garlic

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1½ pounds sliced, cleaned portobella mushrooms, keeping the gills
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 teaspoons minced thyme
4 teaspoons minced parsley
Pinch cayenne pepper
1½ teaspoon flour

2 tablespoon Madeira
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
¼ cup chicken or vegetable broth

1 sheet good quality, store bought, puff pastry
Flour for dusting
1 egg

6 sprigs thyme sprigs


For the ice cream, whisk egg yolks with salt and sugar till creamy. Drizzle in scalded cream. Transfer to bain Marie and cook gently stirring over water bath till the custard just begins to thicken. Stir in Madeira. Chill. When cold, churn in ice cream machine.

For the mushroom filling, heat a small sauté pan. Add olive oil and when shimmering add shallot. Sauté two minutes. Add garlic. Sauté one minute. Reserve.

Heat a large sauté pan. Add olive oil. Heat to shimmering. Add mushrooms. Season. Sauté over high heat to caramelize. Add herbs and cayenne, stirring. Dust with flour and stir, cooking for two minutes. Add Madeira, vinegar and broth. Cook stirring until thickening. Taste for seasoning.

For the tarts, dust board with flour. Lay out puff pastry sheet. Using 2” cookie cutter, cut out 6 – 8 rounds. Brush with whipped whole egg wash. Bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes. Brush top with egg wash again. Bake for another five minutes. When cool enough to handle scoop out a layer of the center, leaving a rim around the edge. Top with mushroom filling.

Serve with a scoop of ice cream and garnish with a thyme sprig.


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