Ro’s Recipes: The Magic of Unlikely Companions V: The Prince and the Pauper

November 3, 2013 by  
Filed under Food & Drink, Pleasures

Our favorite chef, Ro Howe—owner of Barraud Caterers in New York City and a veteran contributor to Women’s Voices for Change—offers the fifth in her series of recipes that make odd (but happy) marriages. Part I was a pleasing blend of tomatoes and watermelon. Part 2 was a bold combination—grapefruit juice with avocado sorbet. Then came a pairing of the bright crispness of apple with the peppery back taste of celery. Next, red Thai shrimp bisque with sweet pea–cilantro ice cream. And now, a delightful pairing of chocolate, the prince of flavor, with the groundling shiitake.—ED.

 

There’s something musty, fusty, and fermented about any mushroom, and shiitake has it in clumps. They are, after all, fungi that slump into subterranean torpor soon after being plucked from the earth, unless protected from moisture. Shiitakes also have a great plastic structure that allows for maintaining shape, strength, and form when cooked. They are sturdy despite being water-storing sponges when fresh. When sliced and sautéed quickly over high heat, the cell structure breaks down and releases the water stored there, which evaporates, leaving the sliced shiitake toothsome and slightly chewy, with crunch at the edges. Toss the slices in some sugar and spice, and you get more than nice: You get surprising and delectable.

There aren’t many foods that are naturally brown—except for wild rice and some mushrooms that grow close to the ground. Brown food doesn’t inspire one to paroxysms of anything much except hesitant rejection. You know—wet earth, old blood, fermented autumn squelch on the ground. So along with its magnificence as a flavor, chocolate, as an anomalous ingredient, is recognized for its unexpected, dark, deep, voluptuousness, woven within its brown color and smothered earth flavor. (To illustrate my flavor profiling—chocolate is not light, white, and puckery, like lemon juice; or bright, green, and vegetal, like snow peas.) Chocolate is a conspiracy of subterfuge: It pretends simplicity and nether-end mundanity in its brown demeanor, and then declares majesty in profundity of texture, taste, and glamour.

So you might think it a mighty misfit to pair regal chocolate, the prince in pauper’s clothing, with the groundling mushroom and make it work. But work it does!

The shiitake, be it ever so humble, is the surprise of the show here. Treated as a fruit, sweetened and spiced, it lightens, brightens, and spikes the smooth coating of chocolate into a dance for the palate—the mouth’s brain.

 

ro howeChocolate Mousse with Spicy Cardamom Caramelized Shiitake and Pear Compote

Yield:  Six portions

Equipment: Three medium metal bowls, measuring cups and spoons, small saucepan for water bath, standing mixer or electrical hand mixer, wire whisk, rubber spatula, small sauté pan.

Ingredients for chocolate mousse:
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate chopped
3 tablespoons sweet butter
2 tablespoons strong coffee or water
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 egg yolks
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons coffee or water

3 egg whites
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
¼ cup sugar

Ingredients for pear compote:
2 ripe pears in season
2 teaspoons finely minced peeled ginger
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons white wine

Ingredients for shiitake:
2 tablespoons clarified butter
6 medium shiitake
Pinch kosher salt
Pinch finely ground cardamom seeds
Pinch chili powder
2 tablespoons sugar

 

Method:

For the mousse, put chocolate and butter in metal bowl over gently simmering water. Stir in liquids.

In another heatproof bowl, whisk together egg yolks, sugar, and liquid, Whisk till thick and foamy.

Off heat, whisk into melted chocolate. Cool.

Using standing mixer, electric hand whisk, or wire whisk, whip egg whites to soft peak. Add cream of tartar. Gradually whisk in sugar. Beat till stiff peaks.

Using rubber spatula, fold egg whites into chocolate mixture in thirds.

Place in plastic container and chill.

For the compote, peel, core, and dice pears. Put in small pan with ginger, wine, and sugar. Cook over gentle heat till pears are a little tender and a syrup has formed.

For the shiitake, remove stems and slice shiitake thinly.

Combine salt, ground cardamom, chili powder, and sugar in medium-sized bowl. Add sliced shiitake and toss to cover.

Heat small sauté pan and add a little butter. Heat to shimmering and add a few shiitake slices. Sauté over high heat till caramelized. Repeat till all shiitake are cooked.

To serve, scoop the chocolate mousse in bowls or glasses. Garnish with pear compote and sprinkle a few slices of shiitake over all.

 

Ro’s Recipes: Unlikely Companions, Part IV—the Sorcerer’s Dance

September 30, 2013 by  
Filed under Food & Drink, Pleasures

As cooler weather begins sidling around the dark nooks of the evening hours and reminds you to snuggle rather than stretch out, you cannot ignore the lure and seduction of hot soup. This soup radiates not just temperature, but has an additional, internal furnace-glow from red Thai curry paste. This soup is kaleidoscopic: soothing, warming, and exciting all in one thrilling, pale, sunny, orange sip.

One of the most magical aspects of Asian cuisines is the juxtaposition of assertive ingredients: hot-spicy-acid-sweet-sour-salty. Asian food daringly folds in all the disparate elements of flavor and texture and makes them family without the easeful luxury and European leitmotif of dairy.

Introducing dairy to the Asian concept of soup is provocative and potentially disastrous. What sort of cunning dream is it, to partner hot soup with frozen cream and eggs! But I challenge you not to be mesmerized by the sorcery in this partnership.

The dreamscape is the tongue-teasing Thai shrimp bisque with the waltzing sweet pea-cilantro ice cream. Think Ginger Rogers’s spicy twirls and Fred Astaire’s smooth slide!

 

Red Thai Shrimp Bisque with Sweet Pea–Cilantro Ice Cream

 Shrimp Bisque

Yield:  Six portions

Equipment: Medium saucepan, small saucepan, measuring cups and spoons, small colander or strainer, blender, medium bowl, thin wire whisk, medium bowl with drum sieve, rubber spatula, ice cream maker, wooden spoon, small ice cream scoop

 

Ingredients for the bisque

1 ½ tablespoons vegetable oil

1 ½ C minced onion

1 ½  tablespoons minced garlic

3 chopped cherry tomatoes

1 ½-inch piece of fresh ginger

2 stems lemongrass, 6 inches long, smashed

2 kaffir lime leaves, roughly chopped

¾ pound shrimp, shelled, de-veined, and chopped

Reserved shrimp shells, sautéed

¾ C cooked rice

2 ¼ teaspoons Red Thai curry paste

1 quart shrimp, fish, or chicken stock

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

 

Ingredients for the cilantro ice cream

2 egg yolks

2 teaspoons sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 grind white pepper

1 C scalded cream

10 tablespoons defrosted frozen peas

1 2/3 C roughly chopped, densely packed cilantro with stems (will shrink when blanched)

2 ½ teaspoons light corn syrup

 

Method:

For the soup, heat a medium saucepan, add the vegetable oil and onions. Sauté until translucent—about five minutes. Add garlic and cook another two minutes. Add tomatoes, ginger, bruised lemongrass, lime leaves. Add shrimp and roasted shrimp shells, stirring to cook vegetables. Add rice, curry paste, and stock. Season with salt and pepper.

Slowly bring to the boil and simmer for 35 minutes, covered lightly.

Strain, pushing through large-holed strainer, to extrude soft matter. Re-season as necessary. Chill if not using immediately.

For the cilantro ice cream, blanch the cilantro in boiling water. Strain and immediately transfer to ice bath. Purée in blender with an ice cube. Reserve in blender.

Whisk the yolks till pale. Add sugar, salt, and white pepper. Whisk again till combined. Drizzle in scalded cream. Transfer to small saucepan and heat over very low flame, stirring with wooden spoon until it begins to thicken. Add peas.

Pour into blender with cilantro and purée. Add corn syrup.

Pass through fine mesh drum sieve, scraping with plastic dough scraper or rubber spatula.

Ideally, let sit overnight in refrigerator, or until well chilled.

Churn in ice cream maker, following manufacturer’s instructions.

While the ice cream is churning, place a container in the freezer. When the ice cream is churned, place in chilled container. Freeze.

To serve, reheat soup gently over medium flame. Do not let it boil. Pour into warmed bowls or cups. Scoop a dollop of ice cream onto the soup. Garnish with cilantro sprigs.

 

RELATED:

 

Ro’s Recipes: The Magic of Unlikely Companions, Part III

September 18, 2013 by  
Filed under Food & Drink, Pleasures

Our favorite chef, Ro Howe—owner of Barraud Caterers in New York City and a veteran contributor to Women’s Voices for Change—offers the third in her series of recipes that make odd (but happy) marriages. Part I was a pleasing blend of tomatoes and watermelon. Part 2 was a bold combination—grapefruit juice with avocado sorbet.  And now . . . a pairing of the bright crispness of apple with the peppery back taste of celery!—Ed.

If you are a stick of celery, you don’t have much fun in life. You get relegated to some excruciatingly crunchy, stringy, healthy salad or you get thrown into many gallons of bottomless stock to make soups and sauces, never to be seen or recognized for your qualities, charm, and beauty again. It is sad being celery.

But here comes apple to the rescue! Apples have that direct acidity, sweetness, and bright crispness. Apples speaks fruit with straightforward aplomb! Just the thing to put a smile on celery’s face, methinks.

Between you, me, and the salad bowl, the strings in celery are unappealing, but juicing solves that and lets the flavor pronounce itself without tying itself in knots. Add the acid forwardness of apple, a grating of fresh ginger, a kiss of honey, and you’ve got a real all around flavor structure just swooning to be spun into sorbet.

All it needs now, of course, is a sprightly drizzle of fruity tomato syrup spiked with spicy ginger to step the savory one-note celery into the spectrum of sweetness.

So here’s celery that has grown up savory and become a dessert—a culinary reassignment with some help from unexpected, sweet friends.

 

Celery-Apple Sorbet with Tomato-Ginger Syrup

apple sorbet

Yield: Six portions

Equipment: Juicer, measuring cups and spoons, medium bowl, thin wire whisk, ice cream maker, ice cream scoop

Ingredients:

2 C peeled, chopped celery                 

6 Granny Smith apples—cored, not peeled

1 1/3 tablespoons peeled, rough chopped ginger

2 tablespoons honey

¾ C superfine sugar

2 egg whites

¾ C superfine sugar

¼ split vanilla bean

4 inches peeled, sliced ginger

3 1/3 tablespoons lemon juice

½ sliced red chili

½ teaspoon fresh thyme

½ C water    

2 cored, quartered tomatoes

6 thyme sprigs

 

Method:

Juice the celery, apple, and ginger.

Add honey and sugar and stir to melt. Chill.

Whisk egg whites to soft peak. Fold into juice.

Churn in ice cream maker. Freeze.

 

For the syrup, combine sugar, vanilla bean, ginger, lemon juice, chili, and water. Bring to the boil and simmer for five minutes.

Add tomatoes and simmer, partially covered, for 15 to 20 minutes.

Strain through fine mesh sieve. Cool and chill.

To serve, scoop sorbet into small bowls or glasses, drizzle with tomato syrup, and garnish with thyme sprigs.

 

Ro’s Recipes: The Magic of Unlikely Companions, Part II

September 5, 2013 by  
Filed under Food & Drink, Pleasures

Our favorite chef, Ro Howe—owner of Barraud Caterers in New York City and a veteran contributor to Women’s Voices for Change—offers the second in her series of recipes that make odd (but happy) marriages. Part I was a pleasing blend of tomatoes and watermelon.—Ed.

When creating—and I mean creating, not copying or reproducing—most chefs search for the well-trod patterns of food pairing to please the well-worn palates of thoughtless diners who might otherwise be disturbed or woken  from the comfortable drowse of the expected.

But I have always relied on curiosity and vagrancy through many of the world’s abundant cuisines to keep expectations at bay. Indeed, I rejoice in my cultural curiosity, which keeps questioning the status quo of established taste and texture patterns in each cuisine I explore.

Just because I haven’t eaten this dish before—does that make it invalid as food? Certainly not: That would condemn the culture as well as the cuisine. It’s a gift to be able to read ingredients for their eccentricities rather than their compliance with established norms, and to find partnerships that pique un-expectations by urging a communion of ingredients. I relish the joy of discovery bestowed by apparent stupidity surprised into serendipity.

Grapefruit and avocado have only two things in common: They are both fruit, and they grow in tropical zones. Other than that they don’t know each other very well, and are certainly not on speaking terms in polite society. But I have introduced them to each other in this recipe. I assure you, they are great friends now.

 

Grapefruit Juice with Avocado Sherbet

-1

Yield: Six portions

Equipment: Food processor, rubber spatula, measuring cups and spoons, ice cream maker, small ice cream scoop, microplane zester

Ingredients:
7 C pink grapefruit juice—strained of pulp
1 C superfine sugar
2 teaspoons angostura bitters
1 teaspoon grenadine

1 1/3 C green avocado flesh
1/3 C superfine sugar
¼  C corn syrup
½ C  milk
¼ C  heavy cream
¼ C  lime juice

¼ C pomelo segments
1 T sugar
1 teaspoon lime juice
1/8 teaspoon grenadine
¼ C jicama
1 teaspoon lime zest

Method:

Combine grapefruit juice, sugar, bitters, and grenadine. Chill.
In a food processor, purée avocado, sugar, corn syrup, milk, and cream. When smooth, add lime juice. Chill. When well chilled, churn in ice cream maker. Freeze.
For the garnishes, gently pick apart the pomelo cells from the segment, eliminating any pith.
Combine lime juice, sugar, and grenadine.
Peel jicama and cut into 1/8 inch dice. Place in lime juice mixture. Zest the lime with microplane.

To serve, pour grapefruit juice in glasses. Scoop a dollop of avocado and float on top of juice.
Garnish with a few jicama brunoise and pommelo cells. Sprinkle with lime zest.

 

Ro’s Recipes: The Magic of Unlikely Companions

August 17, 2013 by  
Filed under Food & Drink, Pleasures

Our favorite chef, Ro Howe—owner of Barraud Caterers in New York City and a veteran contributor to Women’s Voices for Change—offers the first in a series of recipes that create odd (but happy) marriages.

One of the most successful partnerships throughout history, and recently regaining the spotlight, has been the collaboration between farmers and cooks. In the old days, chefs would cook what the farmers brought them from their fields and orchards, and cooks would learn to anticipate what would be in season as the days and weather progressed. Even after that idyllic time, chefs had a good grounding in what was seasonal and planned accordingly.

So what I’m suggesting is that it’s a good idea to keep track of what’s in the market when you’re planning your lunch or dinner menu. Sometimes even seemingly unlikely ingredients can dance the most wonderful summertime saraband!

“Does the world know about this?” a surprised friend of mine recently asked me by email. This turned out to be the combination of watermelon and tomato. Local tomatoes are coming into their own right now, and juice-heavy watermelons are lolling about on trucks just waiting to be adopted. The high acid that provides taste structure to tomatoes and the sweet, watery juice from watermelons are a perfect combination for a gazpacho. All you need is a juicer or food processor.

On your marks! Go!!

 

Tomato-Watermelon Gazpacho

gazpacho

Delicious and magical: tomato-watermelon gazpacho.

People often ask me the reason for the need for bread. Cooked, puréed soups include a thickening and binding agent—flour or rice. But this is a raw soup. It still needs the thickening, and especially the binding, qualities of a starch. Raw flour will not perform this function, but cooked flour or bread will bind the liquefied vegetables into a beautiful, smooth emulsion with the oil. Try it. It’s pretty, delicious, and magical!

 

Yield:  Six to eight portions

Equipment: Juicer, food processor, measuring spoons and cups.

Ingredients:
4 large, ripe, red heirloom tomatoes
½ chopped, seeded red pepper
½ diced red onion
4C seedless watermelon flesh

1C crusted, soaked, squeezed baguette or other good bread
5 Tablespoons sherry vinegar
¼ teaspoon Tabasco
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

3C extra virgin olive oil

Method:
Cut baguette into 2-inch chunks and soak in cold water.
Place tomatoes, peppers, watermelon, and onion in juicer or food processor to liquefy thoroughly.
Remove soaked bread from water and squeeze gently.

Place all in manageable batches in food processor. Add vinegar, Tabasco, and salt and pepper. When all is well combined and puréed, drizzle in olive oil. Taste for seasoning and adjust.

Serve well chilled.

 

Ro Howe’s Recipes: Make Your Own Gravlax!

July 27, 2013 by  
Filed under Food & Drink, Healthy Eating

Last month, our favorite chef, Ro Howe—owner of Barraud Caterers in New York City and a veteran contributor to Women’s Voices for Change—offered instructions for a no-stove-needed summer dish. Here’s another in her series of no-cook recipes to serve in swelter-weather.

I gained independence as a chef when I freed myself from the tyranny of “protein and two veg” on the plate. Now I am more free to explore variances of flavor, texture, shape, and structure in the dishes I create—more alert to the distinctive qualities of ingredients, experimenting with them to enhance their innate ability to speak to us through their nature. If I listen . . . the ingredients speak to me.

For this dish, instead of using poached salmon, potato, and green beans, I utilized the silky texture of raw, wild salmon, with its muscle structure and deeply oiled cells; and I bathed it with a wash of salt, sugar, and dry sherry to give the salmon enough flexible rigidity to make it sliceable.

I picked up the sweetness and reflected it with a tomato-sherry gelée. Salmon is frequently paired with cream cheese, which is too dense for this dish—it’s as jarring as a trumpet blast during the strains of a violin solo. I recast the cream cheese into a gentle custard.

Texture was provided by fresh apple and baked, crisped curry-oil-brushed apple slices. This is the sneak-surprise to challenge the sweetness, the feather in the hat, the smile when you “get it”!

If you listen . . . you will understand too.

Ro Howe

The dish I experimented with, pictured above, is dry sherry–cured gravlax with curried apple, tomato-sherry gelée, and sour cream custard. I offer you a simplified version of this recipe for you to try for yourself. No heat or “cooking” is involved, which is perfect for the heat-misery “dome” we are under at the moment in New York!

 

Dry Sherry­–Cured Gravlax

Yield: 8 to 10 appetizer portions

Equipment: Measuring cups and spoons, small palate knife, plastic wrap, medium bowls, two oblong fish tubs or roasting pans.

Ingredients:
1 side skin-off salmon filet, preferably wild, about two pounds
1 C dry sherry
½ C sherry vinegar
1 C kosher salt
1 tablespoon pimentón dulce
½ C sugar
1 loaf whole grain bread
1 jar grain mustard
 
Salad of choice

 

Method:
Combine sherry and sherry vinegar.
Combine salt, pimentón, and sugar.
Line a large plastic oblong fish tub or roasting pan with plastic wrap, twice the length of the tub or pan.
Gently scrape the flesh of both sides of the fish, removing any loose scales with a small palette knife or the back of table knife.
Place salmon on plastic. Massage both sides gently with sherry-vinegar mixture.
Scatter half the salt mixture evenly on one side of salmon. Press into flesh. Carefully turn fish over and repeat.
Cover the salmon completely with the plastic wrap. Place another tub or pan on top. Place some heavy items in it to weight the salmon.
Refrigerate for two and a half to three days, turning salmon over once and draining liquid once after a day and a half.
Drain collected liquid. Scrape residue salt off both sides of salmon till completely clean. Slice salmon thinly and lay overlapping on a plastic lined sheet tray. Cover with another plastic sheet for the next layer. Store, covered, with plastic wrap and refrigerate till ready for service.
Serve with bread and grain mustard and salad of your choice.

***

Ro’s Recipes: Cool Food for Swelter-Weather

June 25, 2013 by  
Filed under Food & Drink

Our favorite chef, Ro Howe—owner of Barraud Caterers in New York City and a veteran contributor to Women’s Voices for Change—proposes a summer meal, impressive enough to serve to guests, that can be prepared without so much as a glance at the oven. —Ed.

 

Let’s face it—no one wants to turn on the oven, light the burners, or fire up the grill when hot, humid weather wheedles its way past the protection of tree-shade and water fountain.

So here’s a completely balanced, proud-to-invite-you-to-dinner menu of starch, protein, and vegetables that you can prepare without so much as glancing at the oven.

For the first course I chose a gazpacho. Gazpachos, originally from Spain, are the most wonderful chilled soups made from raw ingredients. The second is a tuna tartare and Asian pear salad with a grapefruit sorbet that “dresses” the salad. The third is a rich, seductive Italian cheese course. And, finally, dessert berries dance with crème fraîche topped with meringue. Though it’s raw, there’s nothing parsimonious about this menu in terms of flavor or texture!

 

MENU

Carrot gazpacho with orange-blossom yogurt

Shiso tuna tartare with Asian pear and grapefruit sorbet

Robiola Bosina with balsamic-dressed radicchio and amaretti

Berries with togarashi meringue and crème fraiche

Shiso Tuna Tartare with Asian Pear and Grapefruit Sorbet

Shiso Tuna Tartare

 

Yield:  Six portions

Equipment: medium bowl for tuna, larger bowl for ice, measuring cups and spoons, mandolin slicer, ice cream maker

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 ½ teaspoons finely minced shallots

1 ½ tablespoons finely minced cilantro

6 tablespoons finely diced mango

1/3 teaspoon togarashi

6 tablespoons finely minced shiso

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 ½ pounds grade A tuna in one piece

2 large, unblemished Asian pears, peeled

1 ½ teaspoons dark sesame oil

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

¾ cup pink grapefruit juice

1 ½ teaspoons lime juice

1 teaspoon superfine sugar

1 teaspoon corn syrup

2 teaspoons toasted black sesame seeds

Method:

Combine oil, shallots, cilantro, mango, togarashi, shiso, and salt and pepper.

Trim the tuna of skin and dark blood line. Carefully slice tuna into ¼ inch dice and place in bowl, placed in another larger bowl filled with ice. Refrigerate, covered, until ready for service.

Using the mandolin, very thinly slice the peeled pear. Brush lightly with sesame and olive oils.

For the sorbet, combine grapefruit juice, lime juice, sugar, and corn syrup.

Chill for an hour till very cold. Pour into ice cream maker and churn. Place sorbet container in freezer to chill, ready for churned sorbet.

Combine the tuna with the herbed oil gently. Taste for seasoning.

To assemble, place a slice of Asian pear on the plate. Neatly spoon one sixth of the tuna on top. Cover with another slice of pear. Complete the remaining plates.

Place a small scoop of sorbet on top of the Asian pear. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.

 

   Berries with Togarashi Meringue and Crème Fraîche    Berries with Togarashi Meringue and Crème Fraîche

Yield:  Ten portions

Equipment: Two medium mixing bowls, measuring cups and spoons, small hand whisk, standing mixer with wire whip, rubber spatula, small sheet tray, tinfoil, metal spatula

Ingredients:

1 pint of strawberries, washed, dried, and quartered

2 half pints raspberries

1 half pint blueberries, stemmed and washed

1 half pint blackberries

¼ cup Grand Marnier or Triple Sec

2 cups whipped crème fraîche

4 egg whites

1 teaspoon cream of tartare

½ cup granulated sugar

¾ teaspoon togarashi powder

Method:

Combine the berries in a large bowl. Add Grand Marnier.

Whip the crème fraîche to stiffen a bit.

Combine the egg whites and cream of tartare. Combine togarashi and sugar.

Line a sheet tray with tinfoil.

Whip egg whites to soft peak. Sprinkle in sugar and whip to stiff. Place in piping bag with floral tip. Pipe onto sheet tray.

Gently brûlée with torch.

To serve, place crème fraîche in the bottom of the plate or bowl. Top with berries.

Release meringue and place one atop each bowl of berries.

 

Chilled food, chilled wine, and happily chilled you!

 

 

Ro’s Recipes: In Praise of Mothers, Nuns, and Toffee Pudding

May 11, 2013 by  
Filed under Food & Drink, Healthy Eating

450px-Field_of_cows_with_rainbow_-_geograph.org.uk_-_1439220

“It was idyllic, really—my boarding school, in a Georgian mansion, with fields, orchards, and farmland attached.”

Our long-time contributor Ro Howe, chef/owner of Barraud Caterers, in New York City, had a grim, dour mom. Happily, she acquired several second mothers: the stern but benign Benedictine nuns at her boarding school. She delighted in their sustaining comfort food. Here, in fond memory of the nuns-her-mothers, is a recipe for a real, and comforting, English pudding.—Ed.

 

I wish I could declare that I learned how to cook trailing apron strings at my mother’s knee, but my poor, benighted mama couldn’t boil water. (Somehow, though, she mastered how to steam vegetables to khaki death.) It wasn’t because she was unintelligent or inept: she was a bright spark right up to her death at 84. Unfortunately she carried in her all the rigorous blight of the authoritarian, stern, red-headed Yorkshireman who was her father. She learned to be jolly in company, but reverted to the grim dourness of resentment in the privacy of the family.

So it was a jolly good thing that, because of our colonial British circumstances—I was born in India—I was sent (at the grand old age of 4) to a strict, but quite benign, private English boarding school for most of my childhood. There I was under the care of Benedictine nuns, who were in those days addressed as “Mother.”

The school, on the grounds of one of Queen Victoria’s Ladies-in-Waiting residences, was a beautiful large Georgian mansion with fields, orchards, and farmland attached. As young children we roamed the pastures where cows chewed and lowed and chewed some more; played hide and seek and scampered in the poultry yard among chickens and ducks; and talked to the pigs in the pen. In the summer we picked the fruits and vegetables that would become our meals. It was all very idyllic and far-away-magical, in retrospect. The food we were served was simple British everything, including bread procured and made in the kitchens: barely seasoned but wholesome.

It was living with the nun mothers that showed me the work that went into the process of bringing food from farm to table. I met the cows, ducks, chickens, and pigs, so I really knew whence my simple, sustaining food came from. I didn’t realize at the time how important that was, but certainly now I do. This knowledge built in me an incipient respect for the environment and all that grows upon and within it. What a good place to start any culinary training!

As a paean to the Benedictine Mothers of my youth, I give you a recipe for a typical English “pudding” that was healthy and filled our tummies very happily when we were children. This should bring some American joy to all your moms out there!

UntitledOn the left, sticky toffee banana bread pudding with bourbon crème fraîche. 

Sticky Toffee Banana Bread Pudding with Bourbon Crème Fraîche

Let’s be clear: This is not an American pudding. The term pudding derives from the fact that the British made many cakey things in ovenproof metal “pudding basins.” These puddings included Sussex Pond (lemon), Summer (berries), and Spotted Dick (raisins and currants). Here is another simple-to-make, very typical English winter “nursery” pudding—homey, delicious, and satisfying enough for the child in all adults too. This is what’s for after dinner when it’s cold out!

Yield: 16 portions

Special Equipment: Standing electric mixer, wooden skewer, 4- to 6-ounce ramekins

INGREDIENTS:

Pudding Mix:

3 ¼ cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon freshly scraped nutmeg

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon kosher salt

3 ½ cups coarsely chopped ripe bananas

 ½ # sweet butter

1 2/3 cups granulated sugar

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Toffee Sauce:

2 cups toffee bits

½ cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon dark rum

¼ teaspoon vanilla extract

Bourbon Crème Fraîche:

2 cups crème fraîche, whipped

1 tablespoon good quality bourbon

Method:

For the pudding, combine all dry ingredients and divide into three containers.

Divide chopped bananas into three containers.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter. Add sugar and mix until smooth. With the mixer running, add the eggs and vanilla extract.

Add flour and bananas in six alternating batches.

Pour the mixture into well-buttered and floured 4- to 6-ounce ramekins

Bake on a sheet tray at 350 degrees for 20 minutes, until set.

For the toffee sauce, gently heat the toffee, rum, cream, and vanilla extract till melted and smooth.

Using a wooden skewer, poke holes all the way down into the cooked puddings. In careful stages pour the warm toffee sauce over the puddings till it is all absorbed.

For the crème fraîche, combine the bourbon and crème and whip until softly set. Keep chilled.

To serve, cover and gently re-heat the puddings until they are warmed through. Serve with chilled crème fraîche.

 

A Chef Reviews “The Unofficial ‘Mad Men’ Cookbook”

April 17, 2012 by  
Filed under Books, Food & Drink

We wondered how our favorite chef-writer, Ro Howe—chef-owner of Barraud Caterers, Ltd., in New York City—would view this new collection of authentic Mad Men–era recipes. “A true abomination,” she calls the brown sauce in a 1960s White House recipe for Beef Wellington. But to our surprise, she found the book “serious fun.” —Ed. 

The cover says it all, with its image of a classic 4- to 5-ounce martini, straight up, with two olives. This is The Unofficial Mad Men Cookbook: Inside the Kitchens, Bars, and Restaurants of Mad Men, by Judy Gelman and Peter Zheutlin (BenBella Books, Inc., $11.32). And it turns out to be a delightful evocation of nostalgia-Americana—like the television series itself, which uses food/dining/drinking as cultural props that highlight the ambiance and mores of America in the sixties.

Like a normal cookery book, The Unofficial Mad Men Cookbook is divided into useful sections. First (and foremost!) come drinks. Then come apps, salads, mains, and desserts—recipes gleaned from the bars, restaurants, magazines, and cookbooks of the early sixties era. All of these sources were celebrating the first blush of flush after the relative deprivations of the decade and a half after WW II. Trade, commerce, and their important partner, advertising, were the new battlefields. All of them required entertaining and networking, so corporate America rose to the occasion by having meetings in the natural gathering-places: bars, restaurants, clubs, and private homes.

Mad Men has done a wonderful job of spotlighting the erstwhile hot watering holes and dining establishments (some still extant), and this book presents their recipes: the could-not-be-omitted Oak Bar’s Manhattan; Grand Central Oyster Bar’s Oysters Rockefeller; Keens Caesar Salad. And, cleverly knitting the fictional characters into the skein of the book, it gives us Jerry’s Deviled Eggs; Betty’s Turkey Tetrazzini; Kitty’s Pineapple Upside Down Cake, all adopted from contemporary sources.

It is interesting to note that Americans still eat in the consecutive style epitomized in this era by starting with a salad—the vinegar dressings of which totally annul the grace of wine. Salads still frequently began meals, whereas Europeans eat salad as a palate cleanser after the main course. America came very late to having wine with meals as a matter of course, perhaps because we initiated the cocktail culture. Have you tried having three high-octane cocktails before dinner and then drinking most of a bottle of wine, and following that with a cognac digestif—and did you live to remember it, or not? My point, precisely.

The cocktails are classic and fun. The food recipes are historical hand-me-downs of culinary Americana like Spaghetti and Meatballs with Marinara Sauce and adaptations from classic French and other newfangled “foreign” cuisines: I am sure that Sardi’s Steak Tartare is indeed the restaurant’s genuine recipe, but any serious French bistro would not present the tartare already mixed! French food with un accent Américain! Quelle horreur!! The 1962 gazpacho has the bread served as croutons sprinkled on top, not the authentic mashing of soaked bread with good olive oil to create the emulsion essential to a true gazpacho of any type.

And shall we speak of the industrial boxtop butchers and the food abominators? There are, thankfully, only one or two, like the ubiquitous “add sour cream and stir in packaged dry onion soup mix” that Lipton dubbed California Dip, tasting of chemicals and with enough sodium to pack a heart attack. The recipe for the White House’s Beef Wellington is fine in itself, but the brown sauce accompanying it clearly is a donation from the recipe file of a “chef” who never set foot inside a kitchen and doesn’t have the first clue about constructing the good jus reduction with demi-glace sauce that the original recipes pleads for. A true abomination—thankfully, the only one I found.

Photo: Serious Eats.com

The recipes, put together with canned bravado and boxtops, indicate the period’s culinary dearth. However, where recipes from scratch are cited, the ingredients used are fresh and appealing, not manufactured. My favorite drink recipe? The Stork Club Cocktail (above left) with gin, Triple Sec, OJ, lime juice, and Angostura. And food? Definitely Lutèce’s Shrimp in Escargot Butter (above right).  They both wear their age well, and are as valid now as they were when Don Draper entertained the Schillings and the Barretts.

I’m left with “How serious is the book?” In culinary terms, not very—but that alone reflects the period accurately. The introductions to each recipe are what make this book for me. The serious fun comes from the research and period detail, as well as detailing the recipes referenced in each episode. That’s fine, because it’s a fun giggle-fad and it’s good for a theme party when you’re spicing up your engagement calendar with your mad men and women friends.

 

Ro’s Recipes: A Savory “Mad Men”–Night Meal

March 22, 2012 by  
Filed under Food & Drink, Television

In her last post, Ro Howe, chef-owner of Barraud Caterers, in New York City, looked back at how fashions in food changed dramatically from the recovering postwar fifties to the revolutionary  late sixties. She provided a menu of “Mad Men Moderne,” early/mid sixties-style dishes . . . with a bit of updating to suit our 21st-century tastes.

Celery Sticks with Roquefort Mousse and Dried-Cranberry/Walnut Garnish

Yield: Six portions as part of an amuse selection

Equipment:
Measuring spoons and cups
Small bowl
Wire whisk or hand mixer
2 medium bowsl
Rubber spatula

Ingredients
1 Tbsp. minced dried cranberries
1 tsp finely chopped walnuts
½ tsp sugar
Pinch chili pepper

3 sticks blemish-free celery stems, washed

1 C cream cheese
½ C Roquefort

Method
Combine cranberries, walnuts, sugar, and chili.

Cut celery into 1 ½-inch-long pieces. Shave a thin slice off the bottom curve of the celery to allow them to sit without rolling.

Whip cream cheese and Roquefort until light and mousse-like.

Put into a small Ziploc bag, cut a small hole in one corner, and pipe into the celery.

Garnish with a generous sprinkle of cranberry mixture

 Broiled Pineapple With Bacon-Spiced Pork Belly With Roast Pineapple and Lemongrass-Ginger Syrup

Yield:  Six portions as part of an amuse selection

Equipment:
Measuring spoons and cups
Small bowl
Ovenproof sauté pan
Tongs
Small saucepan
Small mesh strainer
Half sheet tray
Kitchen propane torch
Chinese or other soupspoons

Ingredients:
2 Tbsp. orange zest
2 Tbsp. sugar
1 ½ tsp. ground coriander
1 ½ tsp. ground cardamom seeds
2 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1# pork belly—whole piece

1 ½ Tbsp. canola oil
4-inch root end piece lemongrass, minced
1 ½ tsp. peeled, minced garlic
1 ½ tsp. minced shallot
1 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger
½ tsp. minced jalapeño

¾ C water
2 Tbsp. fish sauce/nam pla from Asian groceries
1/3 C sugar

1 ½-inch slice peeled, cored pineapple
2 tsp. minced cilantro

Method:
For the spice mix, combine the orange zest, sugar, coriander, cardamom, salt, and pepper. Rub liberally all over the pork and store covered in refrigerator over-night.

Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees.

Wipe spice rub off the pork with a paper towel.

Heat a small ovenproof sauté pan. Add 1 Tbsp. canola oil. When shimmering, add pork and sear till well caramelized. Turn over and caramelize the other side.

Place pan in oven and cook for eight to ten minutes. Allow to rest.

When cool, slice the pork into small squares.

For the syrup, heat a small saucepan. Add 1 ½ tsp. oil. When shimmering, add lemongrass, garlic, shallot, ginger, and jalapeño and caramelize.

Deglaze pan with water and fish sauce. Simmer, covered, for 20 minutes, making sure evaporation does not occur. If liquid level goes down, add hot water to make up for any loss.

Add sugar and melt.

Strain, return to pan, and reduce to a light syrup.

Cool and reserve.

Place the pineapple on a half sheet tray over a sink and torch until lightly burnt. Turn it over and torch the other side. When cool enough to handle, trim into small pieces.

For service, reheat the pork, place in Chinese soupspoon and drizzle warmed syrup over it. Garnish with a piece of pineapple and a sprinkle of cilantro.

 

spiced pork belly with roast pineapple – lemongrass-ginger syrup



Chocolate mousse – with spicy caramelized shiitake

Ro’s Recipes: Munchables for Oscar Night, Part 2

February 22, 2012 by  
Filed under Family & Friends, Food & Drink, Movies

Image: TheCelebrationShoppe.com

Here are recipes suggested by Ro Howe—chef-owner of Barraud Caterers, in New York—as munchables that will give you a meal but still keep you in the living room on Oscar Night. She ends with day-ahead preparation tips. She offered a more extended menu in our previous post.—Ed.

 

Mushroom Frittata

Yield: six portions as part of a grazing cocktail buffet

Equipment

Measuring cups and spoons

2-inch pastry brush

Cheese grater or Microplane

Medium wire whip

11-inch ovenproof sauté pan

1 small bowl

1 medium bowl

Large, heat-proof rubber spatula

2 large platters

 

Ingredients

2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

1 C chopped onion

2 Tbsp. minced garlic

1⁄4 C extra virgin olive oil

3⁄4 # Cremeni or other mushrooms, brushed clean of soil and chopped

Pinch cayenne pepper

1 tsp. Herbes de Provence, minced

Kosher salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

9 large eggs, beaten

3/4 C grated mixed Gruyère and cheddar

1/4 C chopped flat leaf parsley

 

Method

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Heat an 11-inch ovenproof sauté pan. Add olive oil. When shimmering, add minced onion. Sauté until the onions are golden—about 3 minutes. Add garlic and sauté another minute. Reserve them in small bowl.

Heat sauté pan again. When shimmering, add chopped mushrooms in two or three batches and sauté over high heat to caramelize them. Return onion, garlic, and mushrooms to the sauté pan and add seasoning, stirring over medium heat.

Whisk eggs well in 10-inch medium bowl. Pour into mushroom pan and stir to disperse evenly.

Sprinkle with cheese.

Cook over medium heat until the bottom is set—about 3 minutes.

Place pan on top shelf of oven. Cook until the eggs are just set—about 10 to 12 minutes. They should have a little jiggle in the middle, which “carry over cooking time” will take care of.

Remove from oven and let sit for five minutes.

Using a heatproof rubber spatula, release the frittata’s edges from the pan. Place a platter upside down on the pan and, using oven mitts, reverse the pan so the plate is on the bottom. Remove the pan. Repeat the procedure with another plate to put the frittata right-side up

Cut into 1 1⁄2-inch squares and sprinkle with parsley.

Serve hot or at room temperature.

 

Pâté de Campagne, Poached Pear, and Pickle with Dijon-Buttered Toast

This is a simple put-together dish, but be sure to buy good-quality pâté from a good grocery store. I suggest Les Trois Petits Cochons or D’Artagnan

Yield: six portions as part of a grazing cocktail buffet

 

Equipment

Measuring cups and spoons

Small saucepan

Peeler

Half sheet tray

Slotted spoon

1 small bowl

Small rubber spatula

 

Ingredients

1# good-quality Pâte de Campagne

2 seasonal pears

1 1⁄2 C red wine

1 3-inch cinnamon stick

1 piece star anise

¾ C sugar

11⁄2 cornichon pickles, sliced

1 French baguette, sliced 1⁄2-inch straight across

6 Tbsp. sweet butter at room temperature

2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

 

Method

For the pears, place wine, sugar, and spices in a small saucepan. Heat to melt the sugar and infuse the spices.

Peel the pears and dice into half-inch pieces.

Gently cook the pears in the red wine until crisp-tender. They must not fall apart. When done, scoop out the pears onto a cold plate to cool. Reduce the red wine until syrupy. Put in a small bowl drizzled with a Tbsp. of syrup.

For the toasts, pre-heat the oven to 325 degrees.

Combine the room-temperature butter and mustard and spread on the toasts. Place the toasts on a half sheet tray and toast in the oven for about 10 minutes until starting to become golden around the edges and becoming crisp in the middle, remembering that they will crisp up as they cool. Place in a small basket or on a platter.

Cut the pâté into thin slices and arrange on a plate. Cover smoothly with plastic wrap until guests arrive, since the pâté will oxidize. Arrange the pickles, pears, and baguette around the plate of pâté, providing small forks and spoons for guests to help themselves to the various components.

 

Blue Cheese, Apple, and Berry Port Tortillas

Yield: six portions as part of a grazing cocktail buffet

Equipment

Measuring cups and spoons

Small saucepan

Peeler

Half sheet tray

Slotted spoon

One small bowl

Small rubber spatula

3 1⁄2-inch round cookie cutter

Sauté pan

Metal spatula

 

Ingredients

1⁄2 C good-quality strawberry or raspberry jam

1 tsp. red port

1⁄4 C apple, peeled and diced 1/3-inches

Pinch red-pepper flakes

1⁄2# blue cheese at room temperature

4 large flour tortillas

1/4C olive oil

 

Method

Combine the jam, port, diced apple, and red-pepper flakes in a bowl.

Cut tortillas into circles with the cookie cutter and store them under a clean tea towel to prevent drying out.

To fill the tortilla, brush the edge with a little water.

Spread the tortillas in the center with the jam mixture.

Dollop a teaspoon of the cheese on top.

Fold over the tortilla so the edges meet and you can pinch the edges to seal. Store covered until ready to fry.

Heat a large sauté pan. Add a drizzle of olive oil. When shimmering, add a few tortillas at a time. When golden brown, turn onto other side. When both sides are cooked, remove to paper towel-lined platter. Continue till all cooked.

Serve warm.

 

Hummus with Radish and Cucumber 

Here’s another “shop-well, put-together” dish. If you’re in lower Manhattan, Hoomoos Asli (spelled as it is supposed to be pronounced), on Kenmare & Cleveland Place, makes a really good one.

Yield: six portions as part of a grazing cocktail buffet

Ingredients

2 quarts good-quality hummus, preferably from a Middle Eastern deli-grocery or restaurant.

2 English cucumbers, washed and sliced 1⁄2-inch

2 bunches radishes with tops (not cello bag), washed, tops and tails trimmed, and quartered

 

Day-Ahead Preparation Tips

As always, go through your recipes, printing them out if possible and modifying them for the number of guests.

Write a comprehensive shopping list, including those non-food items that you’ll need for your event.

Prep the kitchen ahead, clearing counters, emptying garbage, and having recycle bins ready to receive the detritus from the course of the evening.

Have the munchables ready to set out when your guests arrive, along with glasses, napkins, and plates (if you’re planning to use them).

Have the coffee machine and kettle ready to go if you’re planning to offer coffee and tea at the end of the night. This can be a useful tip to nudge the stragglers off home.

It will be a long evening so check the ice compartment in the fridge and buy extra ice if necessary. Calculate one pound of ice per person if you’re serving mixed drinks—less if you’re offering only wine and beer, so long as you have enough room in the fridge to chill them.

Do as much as possible the day or at least the morning ahead. Your job as a host is to be with your guests, not tied up in the kitchen frying tortillas or stuffing and folding crepes—unless, of course, you’re also giving demonstration cooking lessons on the same night!

 


Oscar Night Is a Marathon: A Menu from Ro

February 21, 2012 by  
Filed under Food & Drink, Movies

Most of us can't be at a Food Network party like this one.

For Oscar Night, Ro Howe, chef-owner of Barraud Caterers, in New York, offers a menu of munchables that will keep you fixed on the stars, not continually ducking out to the kitchen.—Ed.

No matter what you might think, the Oscars is a sporting event. How else would you describe a marathon of people, cars, animals, and monsters dashing, jumping, gyrating, and spinning across the screen, accompanied by frenzied music and interrupted by the usual overdose of ads selling gratuitous amounts of car-stuff, jewelry-stuff, house-stuff, and food-stuff?

The two-minute hiatuses, interposed between swift-screenings and thanks-mumblings for the awards (supposedly so lights can be reprogrammed and scenery swiveled into a new configuration), are really scheduled so the network can sell you the experience they think you need so you buy the things they’re selling.

This marathon, like other sporting events, poses a problem. How and what can you eat during the evening? A dining room dinner–sprint is neither feasible nor healthy. Putting a TV on the dining table is as urbane as trailer-camping. So what’s left?  Greasy chip nibbles in a bag in your lap?

Believe me, I have some far better options! Happily, all of them can be served at room temperature of heated quickly and placed before your guests. Not quite Wimbledon, darling, but then, what is?

Here are some ideas for munchable finger food to savor as you pay attention to the screen—munchables that will not require sitting at a table but will give you a proper meal, as long as you eat them in balanced proportions. Some of these dishes are easy to put together just before the show; others will take you longer to prepare.

 

Oscar Night Menu

Mushroom frittatas

Middle Eastern lamb “piggies” with fruit mustard

Chipotle-cured shrimp Magdalena muffins

Pâte de Campagne, roasted pear, and pickle with Dijon-buttered toast

Blue cheese, apple, and berry-port tortillas

Hummus with radish and cucumber

Lobster Thermidor in chive crêpes

Gingered carrot tart with cardamom buttermilk-cream-cheese mousse and carrot cake crumble

 

Next: recipes, and some tips on day-of preparation. 

 

 

 

 

Ro’s Recipes: Spicy Lemongrass Chicken Thighs

Here’s the main dish for the Valentine’s Day dinner suggested by chef Ro Howe in her two recent posts. – Ed.
Spicy Lemongrass Chicken Thighs with Bokchoy and Toasted Cashews on Vanilla RiceYield: two portions as a main courseEquipment11-inch sauté pan, measuring spoons and cups, two-quart saucepan with lid, wooden spoon, platter

Ingredients

1 tsp. cornstarch
2 tsp. water
2/3 pound boneless chicken thighs, dried on paper kitchen towels
4 Tbsp. olive oil

½ Cup onion, sliced lengthwise
2 finely minced Thai chilies or ½ tsp. red chili flakes
2 root-end 6-inch stems lemongrass, halved and beaten to open fibers
1 tsp. minced garlic

¾ Cup chicken stock
1 ½ tsp. fish sauce/nam pla (from Asian groceries)
1 tsp. sugar

¼ Cup washed, chopped cilantro leaves and stems

¾ Cup Texmati rice, washed five times
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. vanilla extract
1 Cup water
½ tsp. olive oil

1/3 pound/ 6 pieces trimmed, washed baby bok choy
2 Tbsp. canola oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/3 Cup toasted cashew nuts, roughly chopped

Method

For the chicken: Make a slurry of cornstarch and water. Add trimmed, dried chicken thighs. Let sit 10 minutes.Heat an 11-inch sauté pan. Add 2 Tbsp. olive oil and, when shimmering, place chicken pieces in, a few at a time and not touching, to brown. Turn them to brown on the other side. Remove to platter. Continue till all pieces have been seared.Wipe out the pan. Add 2 Tbsp. olive oil. When shimmering, add onion, chilies, and lemongrass Sauté until the onion is translucent—about 5 minutes. Turn the heat down a bit and add the garlic.Add the chicken, chicken broth, nam pla, and sugar. Cover and simmer for 35 minutes till chicken is cooked through. Discard lemongrass stems.

For service, sprinkle with chopped cilantro

For the rice: Put washed rice, salt, vanilla, olive oil, and water in a 2-quart saucepan. Cover and cook over high heat until steam escapes from under the lid of the pan. Turn down the flame to its lowest setting. Do not open the lid. Let it cook for 15 minutes. Open the lid and fluff gently with a fork. Cover to keep warm for service.

For the bok choy: Blanch in boiling, lightly salted water for 2 minutes. Strain and shock in iced water. Strain until ready for service.

For service, heat a sauté pan. Add oil, bok choy, and salt and pepper. Toss in pan till warmed through and coated in oil.

For service, sprinkle with the toasted nuts.

Valentine’s Day Enchantment, Part 2: The Menu

February 4, 2012 by  
Filed under Food & Drink

On Thursday,  we published Ro Howe’s plan for a romantic evening  that stars you as the cunning chef who effortlessly conjures up a scrumptious dinner. Ro, chef and owner of Barraud Caterers Limited, in New York City, offers here a menu that provides a sensible structure and dishes that deliver a wonderful range of tastes and textures. She gives her recipe for one of the appetizers, classic Spanish potato and onion tortillas, in “Ro’s Recipes,” another of today’s posts.—Ed

Here’s a sample menu and some scrumptious recipes that will smooth your way to a delightful evening.

 

Valentine’s Day Dinner Menu

 

Nibbles (for the hour or so before the meal)

Classic Spanish potato and onion tortilla

Pâté de Campagne, roasted pear and pickle on Dijon-buttered toast

Spicy salmon tartare with yuzu-lime crème fraîche


 Dinner

Carrot gazpacho with apple yogurt

Spicy lemongrass chicken thighs or lamb or beef with bokchoy and  toasted cashews on vanilla rice

Apple, walnut, and mushroom salad with mushroom vinaigrette

             

 Dessert

Chocolate-kahlua crème brûlée

 

Next from Ro: (1) recipes, shopping, and other planning for the sweet night, and (2) a follow-up post on preparation and day-of tips.

 

Ro’s Recipes: Valentine’s Day Dinner Appetizer

February 4, 2012 by  
Filed under Food & Drink, Healthy Eating

Here’s one of the nibbles I suggest for the delectable “day of enchantment” dinner you’ll be preparing.

 

Classic Spanish Potato and Onion Tortilla

Yield: six portions as an amuse offering before a meal

Equipment

half sheet tray

mini-muffin tin

measuring cups and spoons

small wire whip

small sauté pan

one small bowl

one medium bowl

 

Ingredients

2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil for tins

1 1⁄2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1⁄2 cup minced onion

6 Tbsp. peeled, 1⁄4-inch diced, boiled potato

3 large eggs, beaten

1⁄2 tsp. Pimentón dulce (sweet Spanish paprika, available at despananyc.com)

Kosher salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley

 

Method

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Liberally brush mini-muffin tin with extra-virgin olive oil. Place muffin tin on a half-sheet tray.

Heat a small 8-inch sauté pan. Add olive oil. When shimmering, add minced onion. Sauté until the onions are golden—about 3 minutes.

Add the diced potatoes. Remove to medium bowl and cool.

When the vegetables are cold, add the seasoned, beaten eggs.

Spoon the egg mix into the muffin pan indentations, ensuring that each has onion and potato, filling half way.

Cook 7 minutes. Rotate pan. Cook another 4 minutes. Allow tortillas to cool. Remove and store, covered, until ready to serve.

To serve, reheat tortillas in 350-degree oven till warmed. Sprinkle with a gentle flourish of chopped parsley.